THE threat of summer heat already lies heavy over Cairo  and the rest of Gamal Abdel Nasser's Egypt Heliopolis Giza  shimmer on the horizon, stately feluccas sail down the Nile  as silently as they have done for centuries. Overhead, hawks wheel lazily in gyres. The pace of the people in their flowing gallabia robes, never very fast, has grown a step or two slower. 
Though much of Cairo 's ancient rhythm is unchanged and unchanging, the city is in fact a capital at war, a war that rages daily along the Suez Canal , only 70 miles away. The war shows—in the shabby, weary, olive-drab ambiance of the city, in the preparations it has made against attack. Hundreds of brick blast walls stand on sidewalks in front of doorways. The entrances to a few public buildings are heavily sandbagged. Windows and car headlights are painted blue—the ancient color for warding off the evil eye—to conform to blackout regulations. In erratic fashion, street lights are out in various places. Soldiers slouch in the shade of girders on each of the Nile bridges, and guard the Cairo 
Key to the Arab World 
The occupation has burned deep into the Arab spirit and bred hatred, apprehension and frustration. The presence of the Israelis along the Canal is a constant reminder of the superiority of the Arabs' foe and — what is far harder for the Arabs to bear — of their own continuing inferiority and impotency despite their greater numbers of people, planes, tanks, guns and resources. All of this has fed a growing, fatalistic conviction within Egypt that the rapidly hardening status quo in the Middle East can be broken only by another war — even though most Egyptians do not want one, even though another war would almost certainly mean another defeat. 
The man who must try somehow to find a way to bind up this hemorrhaging of Arab pride and self-respect by recovering Egypt Syria  into the showdown with Israel Egypt , Jordan  and Iraq Israel 
one who could make peace and survive politically — if he were given tolerable terms.
Though Nasser is no longer regarded by the Arab masses as a new Saladin, he remains their best-known and most respected leader, the man to whom all other leaders listen — in other words, the key to the Arab world today, and thus to peace. He remains for many the embodiment of the ancient Arab dream of Al Umma al Arabia, or unity of all the Arab nations, the hero who threw off foreign domination. He is, above all, the man with whom Israel  and the West must deal in seeking a settlement in the Middle  East . 
The Search for a Solution 
The search for that settlement is now taking place far from the desert firing lines. In New York , the U.N. ambassadors of the U.S. , Russia , Britain  and France  are in their sixth week of diplomatic talks on the Middle East . At the same time, the U.S.  and Russia  are together exploring the shape of a possible settlement at high-level talks in Washington Israel  and the U.S. 
In any other part of the world the military blows that are struck daily by each side would have long since led to the march of armies and declarations of war. For 33 of the past 36 days and every day last week, heavy artillery dueled across the Suez Canal . Israelis last week directed their fire for the first time at now-evacuated Port   Said Israel 's eastern front, the guns of Suez  are faithfully echoed in daily artillery, tank, mortar, machine-gun and rifle fire across the Jordan River . 
From the air, Israeli jets repeatedly pound with rockets, bombs and napalm Arab towns and encampments in Jordan  suspected of harboring the fedayeen, the Arab world's "men of sacrifice," who are carrying on a guerrilla war against Israel Israel 
For all of Egypt 's numerical might, the Suez  Canal "might as well be the Atlantic Ocean ," as a realistic Egyptian officer put it last week. Military experts judge that Nasser  could put no more than a company across the canal—and it would be slaughtered. The reason is that the Russians, anxious to avert a fourth round of the war, have carefully not supplied Nasser  with the wherewithal for an offensive strike: the amphibious transports, armored personnel carriers and four-wheel-drive trucks that he would need in order to cross the Sinai. Underscoring their concern that the artillery battles might get out of hand, the Soviets last week dispatched a note to Cairo 
Despite the well-founded Russian caution and his own recent admission in private that any strike across the canal would be "suicidal," Nasser  has steadily stepped up the level of violence to a point where he might not be able to back down easily. After he was received in February with unprecedented coolness and even rudeness by Egyptian soldiers at the Suez  front, who wanted to know when they could fight, Nasser  authorized them to mount heavy artillery barrages against the Israelis. The move was intended to raise military morale. It did, for a time, but soon there were fresh demands for action. So, last month Nasser  sent Egyptian commandos on raids across the canal. 
As a result of such escalation, Cairenes talk increasingly of the inevitability of full-scale war sometime in the indeterminate future. Next time, they say, a surprise Israeli blitz will not succeed, because Israel Cairo , Damascus  or Amman 
It is Nasser's predicament that he must continually talk of war and show himself in action against Israel in order to retain the confidence of militant Arabs and, more crucially, of his own army. At the same time, it is doubtful whether he could long remain in power if he led the Arabs into another round and lost. He no longer shares power in Egypt with General Abdel Hakim Amer, who committed suicide—or so the government said—after the 1967 war, and so Nasser could not again place the blame for defeat on the army. Since 1967, he has had personal control of Egypt 
The leadership of the Arabs is probably the world's most precarious perch. "The presidency is a painful position to hold in present circumstances," he says. "Even now my wife is against my continuing. We do not lead a natural life. We have lived continuously in tension for the past 17 years." In a typically busy seven days, he received Jordan's King Hussein to hear a report on the King's visit to Washington, welcomed Kuwait's Defense Minister Sheikh Sa'ad Abdullah as-Salem to discuss military cooperation on the eastern front, conferred with Syria's President Noureddine Atassi and Defense Minister Hafez Assad, and personally appealed to Fedayeen Leader Yasser Arafat (TIME cover, Dec. 13) to intervene in a dispute between his Commandos and the government in Lebanon. 
Survival by Sumud 
At 51, Nasser  no longer shows the strain of his darkest days in the aftermath of the 1967 war. He appears robust, cured of a reported circulatory ailment by Russian doctors, who ordered him to quit smoking. He has resumed playing tennis and Ping-Pong and, he tells friends, has recently taken to reading the Old Testament "to better understand the Jewish mind." His living room in the Cairo district of Manshiet al Bakri is filled with pictures of world leaders, many of whom he has outlasted in power, from Indonesia's Sukarno to Lyndon Baines Johnson. 
Intensely conscious of his place in history, Nasser, by a grandiose reach, sometimes likens himself to Winston Churchill in World War II, and Suez  to the English Channel . He has declared, at least until recently, that he will not go down in history as the Arab leader who made peace with Israel Nasser : "We are now in the phase of retaliation." 
When Nasser came to power in 1952, he used to insist that any renewal of war with Israel Egypt Cairo Egypt 
To the fellaheen, who make up more than half of Egypt 's population, the threat of Israel Egypt 
"If war comes, it comes," says a shopkeeper in the Moussky. "There is nothing I can do except protect myself and my family and my business from bombs the best I can." The attitude seems typical of Cairenes, preoccupied with living through whatever lies ahead in the safest and most comfortable way possible. The daily task of hacking a way through the urban jungle is difficult enough for ordinary Cairenes, visible in the streets as ranks of sullen men in unpressed suits. Bitterly insecure, frustrated and angry, they might, in a less apathetic country, provide the base for a revolution. In Egypt , carefully watched by Nasser 's security police, they care for neither politics nor war—nor, for that matter, the empty sands of Sinai. 
A Closed Society 
The most disenchanted of Egyptians are the educated, the middle class, the few merchants who have survived the socialist regime, and the middle-to upper-level government employees. They have the pay packets to travel and to buy their luxuries on the black market. But they cannot get uncensored news, and miss "most of all an open society," as one said last week. They freely complain that their life was better in the long-gone days of King Farouk, blame Nasser for dragging them into a war in Yemen  that was none of Egypt 's concern, and were for the first time convinced, by the 1967 war, that Israel Egypt U.S. Egypt 
Cynical Egyptians have a saying that "in Iraq , Nasser  wouldn't last six months. Here he can last forever." The reason is a pervasive, fatalistic apathy. One potent force for reform might be Egypt Egypt Cairo  University 
Nasser is neither much threatened by Egypt 's civilian population nor pressed by them into fresh military adventures against Israel Egypt Cairo Nasser  was in 1952. 
If Egyptians were more given to revolting, they would find abundant cause in Nasser's brand of socialism, which has put one of the world's largest, most inept bureaucracies in charge of the day-to-day functioning of Egypt Egypt Lebanon 
Bureaucratic Mismanagement 
Egyptians consider the Aswan High Dam, built with Soviet aid, to be Nasser 's most signal accomplishment. Now 95% complete, it rises 364 feet above the flat Nile plain 560 miles south of Cairo , and behind it Lake  Nasser Aswan  will supply electricity to Cairo  at less than the cost in New York Aswan , as its most immediate benefit, will widen the narrow ribbon of fertile acreage along the Nile  by 1.5 million acres, and allow double-cropping on another 4,000,000 acres. Even so, Egypt Egypt Egypt 
For the masses of the Arab world, an emotional alternative to Nasserism is provided by the Palestinian fedayeen. So far, they have failed in their primary goal of rousing the population of the occupied West Bank to revolt, and militarily they amount to no more than an irritation to Israel 
In their growing power, the fedayeen are potentially more of a threat to Arab governments than to the Israelis—a fact of which every Arab ruler is well aware. Syria  trains commandos within its borders, but mostly sends them to attack Israel  from Jordan  or Lebanon Iraq Algeria  gives the fedayeen unstinting support, in part because it is safe 1,350 miles away from Israel 
The Fedayeen 
No such sanctuary is allowed in Jordan Jordan River  is virtually a no man's land, and many of the country's villages have been heavily damaged by retaliating Israeli jets. The fedayeen swagger openly through the streets of Amman 
Hussein's dilemma is a vivid lesson to any country that might let the fedayeen operate within its borders. Nonetheless, the most peaceable Arab land of all, Lebanon Lebanon Beirut Lebanon 
The fedayeen draw their main strength from the 1.3 million Palestinian refugees, and have the political power to endanger any peace agreement that does not include an offer that the refugees would consider, finally, just. The Palestinians are among the bitterest people in the world, and with reason. In the wake of the 1948 war, they scattered throughout the Arab lands. Educated, intelligent, some of them staff the ranks of governments and the faculties of Arab universities. But the majority were herded into squalid camps, fed by the United Nations on 7¢ a day and used as pawns by Arab politicians —particularly Nasser—to justify the continuing struggle with Israel. While diplomats spent over 20 years discussing and dropping various plans for resettling them, the Palestinian children were being taught as their primary subjects hatred for Israel and a determination to regain their land in the same way it was taken away—by force. Now grown to young manhood, they are the world's dividend of neglect, the fedayeen. 
The cries for revenge of the fedayeen and the militancy of Egypt 's army have their echoes in Israel Israel 
Fortress Israel 
Yet in the past two years, 274 Israeli soldiers and 48 civilians have died, and 1,343 Israelis have been wounded at Arab hands, and the country is under almost daily attacks that all the Israeli retaliation strikes have not been able to still. In their cafes and kibbutzim, Israelis, too, talk of a fourth round—while disparaging the Arab "war propaganda" as designed only to frighten the big-power diplomats. Within what they consider Fortress Israel 
∙ THE OCCUPIED TERRITORIES. Russia  originally agreed with the Arabs that Israel Israel , realizing that the return of Sinai to Egypt  would enhance Nasser 's prestige, will trade it off only in return for face-to-face negotiations with the Arabs. 
∙ TREATIES. Premier Meir is more vocal than her predecessor, Levi Eshkol, about the need for bilateral talks and a formal treaty as the only means to a lasting peace. Taking Arab intransigence into account, the U.S.  is pressing Israel U.S. Middle East  combatants would separately declare to the United Nations that they were at peace again. 
∙ REFUGEES. Jordan U.S. Israel 
∙ JERUSALEM Israel Jerusalem 
The Israelis' insistence on keeping Jerusalem 
Israelis validly point out that any successor to Nasser , no matter how extreme, would at least not be in the Russians' debt, nor necessarily able to invoke Soviet aid. But, with no successor in sight, the search for a settlement comes down to what Israel  will give up and what Nasser  could sell to his army and to the other Arab lands. So long as their deadlock persists, Israel  gets to keep the occupied territories, which it is putting to profitable use, and Nasser enjoys an external aid to survival, presented by the fact of the Israeli enemy at Egypt Nasser  walks, and he could easily fall—or jump—from it. 
The ultimate conflict between Arabs and Israelis, however, is not so much a matter of land or race or religion as it is one of culture. The Arabs are light-years behind the European Israelis in education and modern managerial and technical skills. The struggle is between a highly developed nation and a woefully underdeveloped nation. Nasser led his revolt in 1952 not only to free Egypt Nasser 's promise and unfulfilled hopes are the tragedy of his years of power. 
If he has not been able to bring change to the Arabs, Nasser himself has been changed by being the leader of their world. From the personification of Arab militancy, able to send crowds into the streets screaming for war, he has become a relative moderate, seeking a way out of another round of war that he cannot win and an unfinished peace that he cannot long endure. In a sense, he has come a long way toward compromise, and is willing at last to concede Israel 
In a way, it is the Israelis who are now the more intransigent party. They would have settled before the Six-Day War for what is now available to them from the Arabs. But no country in history has ever won a war without keeping some of the spoils. With victory, the appetite of the Israelis has increased, fostering widespread Arab fears that they are indeed bent on expansion and a little neighborhood imperialism. Some diplomats believe that it would help if the Israelis at least stated their willingness in principle to withdraw from the occupied territories, provided that their other legitimate security needs were met. It would also help the situation if they made a substantive recognition of the plight of Palestinian refugees. 
Unrealism still exists in abundance on both sides of the conflict. The Israelis cherish the notion that, left alone by the big powers, they eventually would force the Arabs to come to their own terms. It is a hubris that they have earned by successive conquests of arms, and it envisions the downfall of Nasser, long their most implacable enemy, as part of the final process. It may be a shortsighted view: there is no surer way to a lasting truce than forging it with the strongest of one's opponents. 



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