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3/21/10
Posted by science vision on 10:44
Triumph TR8- 1980
The Triumph name originated on bicycles in the 1880s. Motorcycles were added in 1902. The first car appeared in 1923. The TR series came from the desire to make a simple sports car similar to the MG TD and Morgan Plus Four, but with more up-to-date styling. The “TR1” was shown at the 1952 Earls Court Show. Here is a time-line of the production of triumphs:
TR2 was produced from 1953-55 with 8,628 being built.
TR3 was produced from 1955-57 with 13,377 being built.
TR3a was produced from 1957-61 with 58,236 being built.
TR3b was produced in 1962 with 3,331 being built.
TR4 was produced from 1961-65 with 40,253 being built.
TR4a was produced from 1965-67 with 28,465 being built.
TR5 was produced from 1967-68 with 2,947 being built.
TR250 (the TR5 for the N. Amer. market) from 1967-68 with 8,494 being built.
TR6 was produced from 1968-76 with 94,619 being built.
TR7 was produced from 1974-81 with 112,368 being built.
The TR7 was a controversial car; it introduced us to the wedge-shaped body seen in the TR8. The TR8 was produced for export only, although 18 right hand drive were built for the British market as a coupe or convertible, convertibles being more common. This is the last model Triumph produced.
Specifications:
Manufacturer: British Leyland Ltd.; BL Cars Ltd.
Country of Origin: Great Britain
Drivetrain Configuration: Front engine, rear wheel drive
Engine: 3528cc, 135 bhp, V-8
Transmission: 4 speed manual
Top Speed: 121 miles per hour
Years of Production: 1979-81
Number Produced: 2,722
Volvo 144- 1971
Posted by science vision on 10:43
Volvo 144- 1971
The first production model Volvo was completed in 1927. Volvo car and truck production continued throughout WWII on a limited basis due to material shortages and isolation from foreign suppliers. By 1949, with the production of the Volvo pv444, Volvo was producing more cars than trucks. In 1966, the Volvo 144 which you see here was introduced. It was hailed as ‘the safest car in the world’ and was voted ‘car of the year’ in Scandinavia . Bigger than its predecessor, the Volvo 144 was a milestone in terms of both active and passive safety. Disc brakes all round–a feature normally found only on exclusive sports cars–were standard, while the dual-circuit braking system was a major advance. The body was provided with energy-absorbent crumple zones and the steering wheel was of the collapsible type.
Specifications:
Manufacturer: AB Volvo
Country of Origin: Sweden
Drivetrain Configuration: Front engine, rear wheel drive
Engine: 1985cc, 130 hp, 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4 speed manual
Top Speed: 90 miles per hour
Years of Production: 1966-74
Number Produced: 1,205,111
ZAZ Zaporoshets- 1965
Posted by science vision on 10:41
ZAZ Zaporoshets- 1965
"ZAZ" stands for "Zaporozhsky Avtomobilny Zavod" or "Zaporozhet's Automotive Factory. It was conceived in 1958 as a result of a decision of the Soviet government to build a "people’s car", similar to the Volkswagen Beetle in Germany or the Citroën 2CV in France . This operation was limited by the Stalinist ideology that did not allow people to buy any type car they chose. The car you see here is the "965". This car was called "humpbacked" by the Russians because of the stumpy look. You may notice the resemblance of the front to that of the FIAT 600. That is because the Russian Minister of Industry ordered the engineers to copy the Italian car.
Specifications:
Manufacturer: Zaporezhskiy Avtomobilnyi Zavod
Country of Origin: U.S.S.R.
Drivetrain Configuration: Rear engine, rear wheel drive
Engine: 1197cc, 4 cylinder, air cooled
Transmission: 4 speed manual
Top Speed: 50 miles per hour
Years of Production: 1958-63
Number Produced: “Very many”
Elvis Presley, what about his Cars
Posted by science vision on 00:30
Elvis Presley, what about his Cars
Herewith an apology to the millions of Elvis Presley fans around the world. I never cared for your hero. I didn't approve of his Elvis-Pelvis stage mannerisms, hated his bouffant hair style, had no taste for his singing. This was not a generational thing for I was only slightly older than Presley during the height of his popularity. I was also part of the culture of the period, a renegade in some respects, definitely not a prude. So to understand my animosity you need to appreciate that musically I was dedicated to modern jazz, with a low tolerance level for pop and rock and a dislike of country music. By my standards Elvis was a third-rate guitar player and couldn't sing any better than most of the boring crooners of the day.
However I'm now willing to concede a grudging respect for Mr. Presley, for I've just learned that he was (gasp!) a car guy. Yes, Elvis Presley purchased more than 200 vehicles during his lifetime, including some real collectibles. Of course I knew that he'd owned a pink Cadillac Fleetwood because my ad agency art director Ray Fry recalled spotting the car in Pasadena when Ray was a student at the Design Center, leading to a brief "car guy" chat with the rock legend. But I didn't know that Elvis also owned, among others, the red MGA from "Blue Hawaii," a purple 1956 Eldorado Convertible, and a 1973 Stutz Blackhawk.
The cars from Elvis' garage will be on display during the inaugural Elvis Motor Classics International Car Show at Graceland from May 27 to 30, 2010. Many other collector cars will gather on the 70-acre grounds to celebrate the anniversary of his 75th birthday. The family-friendly four-day event will also feature music, competitions and tours. Classic car enthusiasts will be able to experience the Elvis Presley Automobile Museum , tour Graceland and other Memphis highlights, and enjoy special discounts and accommodation rates. "Elvis was passionate about collecting cars, so Graceland is the perfect place for car enthusiasts to celebrate his 75th birthday" said Walt Hollifield, world-renowned collector and event organizer. "We've received calls from clubs and individuals from as far away as Colorado and Canada who are bringing their classic cars to Graceland ."
My friends at Hagerty Insurance will be on-site, assisting with event registration and presenting trophies on Sunday.
For more information about attending or exhibiting at The Elvis Motor Classics International Car Show, you should visit ElvisMotorClassics.com or call (704) 455-1564. I won't be there unless Elvis is, but if that should happen I'll say to him "hey man... your guitar playing may not be cool but your cars are." I'm sure he'd appreciate the compliment.
MG Dreaming
Posted by science vision on 00:29
MG Dreaming
Imagine, if you will, acquiring a professionally restored example of the vehicle that first turned America on to sports cars. Then imagine that all you paid to own this 1949 MG TC (shown above) was $100.00. Sounds like a dream, doesn't it? But it could be yours if you participate in a charity draw organised by the New England MG 'T' Register, an international organization dedicated to the maintenance, preservation and enjoyment of T-Series and Vintage M.G.s. Tickets are just $100.00 each and with only a limited number being sold you have a very real chance of winning. This, by the way, is an outstanding TC that features dual spare tires, a luggage rack, seat belts, temperature gauge, all the right lights, Alfin drums, and a walnut dashboard.
It was owned by the late David O. Hakanson, who was a very enthusiastic member with a TC, TD, and a TF in his collection, along with an MGA. According to the Register, Dave took great pride in his cars, and all of them were in great condition. Chuck Troast of New England Classic MG restored the TC about eight years ago and it probably has fewer than 2,000 miles on it since then. Dave's wife Liz has decided to let the Knudson Churchill Scholarship Trust use the 1949 TC as a fund raiser with a share of the proceeds going to the Hakanson Family Trust. The drawing takes place at 5PM, Friday, May 7, 2010. You needn't be there to win but you will have to pick up the car in Oneonta , NY , and drive it home. Not exactly a hardship.
Woodrim Steering Wheel
Posted by science vision on 00:28
Woodrim Steering Wheel
Back in my sports car days one of the most desireable accessories was a Nardi woodrim steering wheel. It could make an ordinary car seem special and told the world that its owner was a person of discerning taste. Nardi wheels were not inexpensive, which is why you didn't see them on every MG or Triumph Spitfire, and they were also standard equipment on several high-end automobiles, such as Ferrari. Of course, Nardi wasn't the only company to manufacture such wheels but the design was so elegant, so perfect, that a Nardi wheel remained apart from the others, as a Tiffany lamp or Saarinen Tulip chair would do.
Frankly, I'm not a fan of the thick-rim steering wheels of today, even though they have their origins in race car design. I know some drivers claim to get a better grip but those wheels make me feel like I'm steering with a pair of boxing gloves on my hands. In my humble opinion there's nothing to match a slim woodrim, not only for its appearance but because it seems to provide a closer connection with the road. Unfortunately modern safety regulations requiring an air bag in the hub would seem to prevent swapping a production steering wheel for a hand-made custom job so we're stuck with what we get. The girl you bring to the party is the one you dance with.
That said, owners of sports and vintage cars from model years preceeding the air bag rules should have no problem fitting a woodrim wheel. And in that respect, the handcrafted steering wheels of RichCraftedWheels.com stand apart, even from the Italian Nardi wheels which, by the way, are still in production. Only a limited number are made each year. Average time to make a standard wheel is 70-80 hours with some custom wheels requiring up to 100 hours. The Web site explains that "each piece of wood is hand fitted, hand filed, hand sanded, hand finished. The wood is then sealed in an automotive two-part epoxy that resists acids and UV rays. Because the wood grain has it's own signature and with the multiple wood combinations no two wheels will ever be exactly alike."
Exotic woods like teak, walnut, and even rosewood can be chosen. Company owner Paul Rich adds "I have made steering wheels for almost every kind of automobile you can think of, including boats and a John Deere tractor," so obviously whatever you have sitting in your garage, by your dock, or on your farm, will not intimidate him. As for me, I'm stuck with that big fat rim on my Focus ZX5 but when the day arrives that I finally buy a vintage automobile, you can be sure that very little time will pass before it has a handsome woodrim steering wheel gracing its interior. It just feels right.
Used Car Parts
Posted by science vision on 00:27
Used Car Parts
No one can argue that collecting cars isn't one of the fastest-growing hobbies in the world. I think there are a number of reasons for this. For one, the computerisation of the modern automobile, together with its associated gadgetry, has turned people off. That's not just older folk who still remember what it was like to drive an automobile without such aids; young people often tell me they wish cars could be more involving. As well, the modern car makes owner repairs difficult, if not impossible. Consequently more and more enthusiasts are turning to older cars as a hobby.
Once they make that commitment all sorts of opportunities open up. The thousands of collector car clubs worldwide welcome new members, offering a novice owner social involvement, with a chance to make new friends. There they exchange information on repairs and restoration and can participate in events that range all the way from local shows to major concours, and from club tours to international rallies. Those with an urge for track competition can even take up vintage racing, assuming they have a suitable car.
For the first-time buyer, many questions arise, not the least of which is defining the difference between an "old" car and a collectible automobile. That's often a tough one to answer but generally speaking, 25 years is the cut-off most licensing agencies and insurance companies use. Thus, any vehicle registered as a 1985 model and earlier qualifies. Don't hold me to this as it varies from state-to-state and province-to-province but you can try that as a guideline.
Finding a suitable car is another quandary, one that requires research online and in classic car publications. You also need to be careful about condition. A car that is cheap to purchase but demands long and costly repairs may not be the bargain it seems to be, thus you'll never get your investment back. Which is important because a collector car is normally a safe investment, often worth as much as you paid, and more.
The good news for the would-be restorer, or anyone who wants to keep an old car running, is that inexpensive used car parts can be easily purchased online. Forget about crawling through junkyards; buying online gives access to premium used parts suppliers all over the country. So if you've ever thought about becoming a car collector there's nothing to stop you providing you stay within your budget. Join a club, do your research, and be ready to have some fun.
3/20/10
Ways to Sell: Timing, Convenience, Price
Posted by science vision on 23:53
Ways to Sell: Timing, Convenience, Price
Have you moved recently? Have you had the responsibility of dispersing the estate of a close relative? How about just cleaning out to make more room and simplify your life? If you have faced any of these events you have also faced another problem - what to do with all the "stuff." Some of it you probably want to keep for sentimental attachment, moral obligations or other intangible reasons but for most of the rest of it you just wish it would disappear - for a price of course. Other than just passing an asset along to another relative or even a friend, most forms of dispersal have some sort of an economic benefit. Which one you choose depends on your priorities. Considerations include timing, convenience, economic expectations and family feelings and pressure.
The easiest thing to do of course is to load it all up and take it a local charity outlet store. It's quick, easy and painless. In some cases, if you itemize the load and get a receipt you can even use it as a tax deduction. Many charitable organizations will even pick up your load, including automobiles.
But what if you want to produce a more direct financial benefit? Then you have to pick a method to sell the inventory and that gets tricky because you almost have too many choices. Your options include selling to a private buyer, selling to a dealer, selling to an auctioneer, consigning to an auctioneer, consigning to a dealer or selling online.
SELLING OUTRIGHT
Before you start to sell you need to determine exactly what you have to sell because where you sell important items can be a crucial factor in the final payment you receive. If you have mostly late 20th century small items, a garage sale is fairly quick but you know how prices go at garage sales. If you have larger items like a bedroom set or a piano you may need to get some professional help from an appraiser, dealer or auctioneer to help you identify, date and place a value on the big stuff.
Then make an effort to find out where such things are regularly sold. You don't want to sell a high quality set of furniture, even if it is 20th century, at a smalls auction, a jewelry auction or in a local mini-mall that specializes in Depression glass. Take a look at a good furniture auction or consider putting it in a local estate sale run by an estate sale specialist. The estate sale may be the best way to take care of an entire household at one time. Another idea for a big inventory sale is to sell it outright to an auctioneer. Some auctioneers will buy the entire household, right down to the pots and pans. He will pay you a flat negotiated price and you are done. The auctioneer then takes the risk of what things sell for at auction. Of course you will probably receive a lot less than the proceeds of the auction this way but it is quick and you get paid immediately.
Of course you may just want to place an advertisement in the local paper and wait for buyers to knock down your door - if you write a good ad, adequately describe the article and price it reasonably. This will bring you the best price but may take the longest and is the most risky because you may have to let strangers walk through your house. Or you can wholesale it to a dealer who will pay you about fifty percent of the estimated retail value but then again - you are done.
CONSIGNMENT
By consigning something for sale you are asking someone else to store, advertise and sell your item or items for you and collect and account for the proceeds. This does not come cheap and usually doesn't happen quickly. The two primary avenues of consignment are to a dealer or to an auctioneer.
Many dealers will take consignments to place on their showroom floor but they must be priced in accordance with the rest of his inventory. And they often will place a time limit on the arrangement. If the item doesn't sell in "X" number of days you must pick it up and remove it from the store. For this service a retail dealer will charge you anywhere from 30 to 50 percent of the final sale price.
You can also consign to an auction house. The auctioneer will require a commission based on a percentage of the final sale price, often 20 - 30 percent, but you can, if you and the auctioneer agree, place a minimum bid, the reserve, on any item to assure that it does not sell for a garage sale price. If bidding doesn't reach the reserve you take the piece back and probably will have to pay the auctioneer some reasonable expenses for the transportation, storage and handling of the item. Just make sure you have all aspects of the agreements in writing before embarking on the sale.
If you discover that you have what may be some very valuable articles such as 18th century furniture or art you may want to consult the appraisal services of major regional and national auction services.
No matter how you decide to dispose of some of the excess baggage of your life, be sure you know what you are disposing of and what the ramifications may be on family members who have or think they may have a claim or right to the merchandise. Be careful.
OLD BRASS
Posted by science vision on 23:52
OLD BRASS
When you read the catalog for an auction that will be presenting some genuine antique furniture, it's always interesting to read the descriptions. Some of the most alluring will describe a piece of furniture as having "original finish" or "original brasses". That's a real selling point when looking at a chest of drawers that may be 200 years old and think that those brass pulls have been there undisturbed for that whole time. Can that be? Sure it can but sometimes that's not the case. And it doesn't have to be a 200 year old antique chest for the hardware to make a difference. It could be a pretty nice Colonial Revival chest or desk or dresser, in excellent condition, that catches your fancy. But is it all original? And does it matter? Whether it matters is a concern for another day. Today the discussion is just on determining the originality of hardware.
Since changing or altering hardware is one of the quickest and cheapest ways of improving the look of an otherwise bland piece, the pulls are always suspect, especially if they look REALLY good.
Early 18th century hardware was cast from molten brass using molds made of sand. This type of hardware is easy to recognize because it often has "inclusions" from the sand itself in the brass, either grains of sand or odd colors from impurities. The backs of this type of hardware were often left with the impression of the sand while the faces were polished. Around the middle of the 18th century the customary blend of copper and zinc was changed to include more copper, giving the alloy more of a reddish cast than the pale yellow brass used for hardware earlier in the century. And by 1780 rolled brass sheets were available so that each piece of hardware could be cut or stamped rather than having to be cast. This greatly reduced the cost and increased the availability and uniformity of late 18th century drawer pulls and escutcheons.
The use of high pressure rollers during the Federal period increased output even more. No longer did decorative pulls have to be engraved or chased individually. The designs were rolled right into the brass itself. An excellent example of this kind of work is the ornate oval backplate of Hepplewhite pulls of the early 1800s with flags, acorns and leaves embossed on them. Another innovation of the Federal period was the reversing of the bail, the handle. In the Queen Anne period the bail was inserted into the round heads of posts implanted in the backplate. The ends of the bail entered the posts from the inside and the bail hung between the two posts. In the Federal era the bails entered the post from the outside so that the bail surrounded the posts. But much of that became moot as time rolled on. The Empire period certainly had decorative hardware but that was the end of it for nearly half a century. The Late Classicism style of the 1830s and 1840s used almost no brass hardware and Rococo Revival and Renaissance Revival used very little. It was only in the Eastlake period in the 1880s that brass hardware became important again.
So, if the hardware is the right style, looks appropriate for the piece and could very well be as old as the piece, how can you tell? The easiest and least intrusive way is simple observation. Over the years you can bet that not every time that hardware was cleaned some industrious soul removed it from the drawer. The same is true each time the piece got waxed. If the finish was waxed or the brass cleaned while the pull was in place, there will be some residue around the edge of the brass. The build up of wax or the overflow of brass cleaner will be evident. But that clue is only valid in its presence. Its absence could mean the piece was meticulously maintained or that it has just been deeply cleaned or even refinished.
A quick peek inside the drawer might show the presence of holes that once accommodated the fasteners for hardware other than the current resident. The fasteners themselves can be a clue. The hardware of a 17th century piece would have been held in place by clinched cotter pins on the inside. If there is evidence of that but the current fasteners have threaded posts and nuts, something has been altered. And the threaded posts of an 18th century piece would have been hand cut and the nuts were usually round. If machine made threads and octagonal machine made nuts are visible, something's up.
As a last resort, if possible, remove the existing hardware from the drawer front. Carefully examine the wood and the finish revealed when the brass is gone. Is there a shadow of another size or differently shaped piece of hardware. Is there an imprint in the finish caused by the sharp edge of another piece?
You best tool is knowledge of what the correct hardware looked like for each style and period in which you have an interest. I have yet to find a book or source that deals with this narrow subject so as you read related antiques materials you just have to mentally catalog what hardware looks like for a given style of period.
DEPRESSION SURVIVAL NOVELTY FURNITURE
Posted by science vision on 23:51
DEPRESSION SURVIVAL NOVELTY FURNITURE
Have you ever picked up a book about American 20th century furniture and marveled at the number of seemingly "non-furniture" items included in the pages? If you look around homes and estates originally furnished in the 1920s and 1930s you might see many of the same items stashed away in nooks and crannies. The same holds true for old movies. The next time you see a flick from the 1930s look at the backdrop. While it may the stylish streamline Art Deco of the period, more than likely it is filled with small, non-essential items like wall racks and magazine stands, smoking stands and sewing tables. Where did all of that stuff come from?
It was the result of one of the most trying periods of American history - the American Depression of the late 1920s which lasted until after the Second World War. The great stock market crash of October 1929 was just the beginning. After that the country was plunged into a deep depression that brought poverty to many middle class working families and threatened the existence of much of American industry, including the furniture manufacturing and retailing industries.
It became harder and harder, then virtually impossible, to sell a new dining room suite or a new living room ensemble to a newly impoverished family that could barely pay the rent and buy food. But there is always that small ember of burning desire to make small additions and improvements to the nest so the furniture industry came up with a new product line - the "novelty" furniture. Companies that could no longer sell the entire houseful of furniture found that they could help the housewife spruce up the dining room, not with a new suite but with a new novelty called the "teacart" or "tea trolley". True the form had been around since the early 1920s but it became popular after the crash. Not that American households served traditional hot tea in the English manner but the name gave the wheeled buggy a nice little touch of much needed class. And if a little class was good, many choices in the class were better. Major players like Stickley Brothers of Grand Rapids entered the novelty market offering as many as eighteen different finishes and decorative schemes for it line of "hostess wagons.' And they came with tray tops, extra shelves, folding handles and a variety of wheel arrangements as well as a number of names.
The major center of the novelty industry was found in Chicago with its wide variety of manufacturers. One of the more innovative of the novelty makers was the United Table-Bed Company. They made their famous "Ta-Bed", a bed that folded up to look like a small breakfast room table. It was marketed as a multiple use product that "saves space, saves rent, perfectly combines in one piece of furniture the functions ordinarily performed by two." The Storkline Corporation turned out a line of inexpensive baby cribs and juvenile furniture while even the powerhouses of Chicago joined in the niche market. Tonk Manufacturing, finding the need for piano stools waning, turned to high chairs and music cabinets. Parlor frame maker Zangerle & Peterson turned to small tables and commodes and Kruissink & Brothers turned from oak bookcases to wall shelves.
The great survivor of the novelty makers was Butler Specialty Company, formed in 1927. Butler specialized in magazine racks and wall shelves to survive the Depression, turning later to full size, high end furniture. Butler is still in business today offering a medium to high quality line of furniture.
Another product of the novelty phase was perhaps the best known sewing stand of the 20th century. No, not the Martha Washington. It was the priscilla, the small stand with the peaked top that opened on both sides below the handle. This little stand first appeared early in the century and gained prominence during the dark days.
But the prize of all the novelties was the smoking stand. This multi-purpose stand came into use just after World War I and was popular until after WWII even though it slipped a little in the 1930s. The stand focused initially on the pipe smoker, providing an enclosed humidor space, complete with moisture pad, in the interior. Many of the "humidors" appeared to be made of copper or brass but were in reality just sheet metal that had been painted or coated. Brass and copper were much too expensive for smoking stands. The smoker or smoking stand became the object of decorative fancy, utilizing the most outrageous woods possible. Zebra striped "zebrano" veneer was a common material as was Oriental walnut, the striped Australian wood. Applied decals and exotic paint schemes decorated many of the affordable stands.
One well known novelty maker outside of Chicago was the H. T. Cushman Company of Bennington , VT. Founded in 1864 making corks Cushman diversified into "novelties" that led to such items as the pencil with an eraser on it, the first ink eraser and some of the earliest roller skates. Cushman introduced its first smoking stand in 1913 and it was the cause for factory additions in 1919, 1922 and 1926. In the early 1930s Cushman expanded the line to include articles that fell in with the Colonial Revival movement of the day and became a major manufacturer of "Colonial" furniture. Over the years it updated its lines and eventually was acquired by General Interiors Corporation. The factory facility was used by Green Mountain Furniture to construct inventory for Ethan Allen from 1972 to 1978.
Many modern furniture manufacturers today owe their existence to the survival mode adopted during the Depression and a large part of that mode was the design, construction and sale of "novelty" furniture to the American public.











